Tuesday 22 October 2013

Cruising - Greece, Turkey and beyond

CRUISING
11 Night Eastern Mediterrannen Celebrity Cruise - Reflection

Rome > Santorini > Istanbul > Kusadasi > Mykonos > Athens> Naples > Rome

Our dear friends Craig and Christina put the thought of cruising in our minds.  We had a 3 week gap to fill when we were in and around Italy and Christina mentioned the cruise they were taking...so why not.  After a couple of weeks with trying to secure 2 cabins, it was only 10 days before sail date that we were confirmed.

Reflection is the youngest ship of the Celebrity fleet with her maiden voyage being October 2012, we were able to celebrate her first birthday with her in style.. The making of these ships is amazing and this one only took 5 years to complete.  With 3000 passengers and 1500 or so crew members we sailed off into the sunset with our first stop being Santorini after a day at sea, a perfect way to become aquainted with the ship and all it had to offer.  Tony and I took advantage of a couple of packages for ourselves and got the kids booked into the 'Fun Factory' where Hamish remained for 11 days straight with never setting foot on land.  We enjoyed the fitness centre each day and were able to go into the Persian Garden for relaxation with body scrubs, aromatic steams and sauna.  The place had a ceiling to floor glass view of the endless ocean and several heated relaxation beds for rest after a stenuous work-out in the fully equipped fitness centre.  We choose a few different body scrubs, as it was self administered in the common steam room there were always onlookers and a bit of chat about the flavour of scrub we were using.  I have to say my skin was as soft as a new borns bottom.

Ports of call in a nutshell;

Santorini - the jewel of the Greek Isles.  This was a special day for Tony, as he has always had a drawing to this place.  It was absolutely wonderful to be sitting at the top after our trek up, approx. 600 steps as we weaved our way through donkey's and the trail of mess they left behind...I was certainly hot after that climb and was thankful for the cool drink at the top.  The first thing we see is the green and red sign (Victoria Bitter).  We stepped inside to cool off, use the facilities and of course wifi.  We were having withdrawals.  It is the funniest thing to see all us tourists in this bar in one of the most scenic places on Earth and we have our heads in our devices.  Well Tony had an excuse as the final payment and  close of sale was requiring attention and wet signatures.  Of course this happens whilst we are cruising.

Tony writes:
Having trekked all the way to the top, I figured we are in Greece better try the Ouzo. Brings back memories of my teenage years with the boys drinking ouzo and lemonade. Not bad, but just not the same, oh well a bit older and a lot more sensible these days just one is fine, back to enjoying the view and a beer. 

There was no line-up for the cable car down to the port so given we had already had our workout going up the stairs it was cable car down for us and some quick photos of the track we had taken to get up to the top. 

Istanbul, Turkey - Istanbul is a unique city built on 2 continents - Europe and Asia...this was very cool to see!  It is located on the shores of the Bosphorus, with the waters of the Black Sea and combined with The Sea of Marmara and the Golden Horn.  We travelled through some of the narrowest waterways on our way in, it was quite surreal to be running on the treadmill in the gym and seeing all those historical sites just off to our left and right as we approached.  Istanbul houses some very special monuments that we were able to get a closer look at.

A two day stopover, so we decided to do the first day by ourselves and went in for a look around with Emma. The shopping bazaar holds some 4000 shops and is all undercover, it was surprisingly cold outside. After a bit of a look around we came to the realisation that there might be 4000 shops but they were selling mostly the same stuff, time to escape and have a spot of lunch. A quick trip past the outside of the blue mosque for some photos and back to the boat for us via the leather shop for the girls.

Day 2: We scheduled an excursion through the ships 'shore excursions' desk and we set of with our group of 40 odd shipmates to see the sights.  We started at the Aya Sofia also known as the Hagia Sophia, which was a magnificence mosque and was the first Imperial mosque in Istanbul from 1453 - 1931. Today, it now serves as a museum and has since 1935.

We went on to see the The Blue Mosque as known by us Westerners, but the proper name is The Sultan Ahmed Mosque and serves as a historic Mosque.  It received it name due to the blue tiles adorning the walls of its interior.  It took 7 years to build from 1609, it is still used as a Mosque today. Unfortunately, we were unable to enter the Mosque due to poor timing, it was Friday after all and prayer was in full form.

Our favourite had to be the Basilica Cistern, which is one of the most magnificent historical structures of Istanbul.  It wasn't a far walk from Hagia Sofia, across the street, so off our group of 40 went as we herded together like sheep.  It is an enormous underground cistern built by the Byzantine Emperor.  There are 336 columns in it with each being 9m in height each.  It is a large rectangular structure being 140m in length and 70m wide.  The Cistern has a capacity of 100,000 tons of water storage and is 9,800 SQM in total.  They used the left over materials from the Hagia Sofia to build the Cistern and it only took 1 year as opposed to the 5 years for Hagia Sofia.  2 Medusa heads rest here and are used as plinths, there are many myths concerning how the heads arrived there and their uses.  (I'm so sorry my photos cannot load here, as it is so beautiful).

Kusadasi (Ephesus) - Kusadasi means "Bird Island" and is thought to be one of the most eye pleasing cities on the Aegean Sea.  It is on the west coast of Turkey and the main holiday destination for the country. It was originally a small fishing village and is now dedicated to the tourists who flock to visit their beautiful beaches and of course the old town of Ephesus.  For both Tony and I, this had to be the highlight of the ports.  The Ephesus ruins were exceptional...too bad as so did 7000 other people.  Ephesus is a showplace of Aegean Archaeology.  It is something to see and resembles a large park with ruins all within walking distance from each other.  My favourite was The Celcius Library, the work that went into restoring this beauty is remarkable.  Afterwards, we were taken by our driver to a Turkish carpet weaving centre.  I loved this and was educated on wool on wool, wool on cotton and silk on silk.  I had a go with the wool on cotton and mastered that, but was no where as fast as my teacher.  The silk on silk, I couldn't even get 2 strings on my finger to start the weaving.  I surely would have purchased one of these pieces of art if given the chance.  Tony didn't even entertain the notion of a beautiful Turkish rug adorning our lounge room with the thought of rubbing his toes through it.

Mykonos - this island is part of the Cyclades in the deep blue waters of the Mediterranean.  Rhinos, Siros, Paros and Naxos surround it, it has countless bays, beaches (much too cold for our liking to enjoy that) and quaint cobblestone streets.  Just as you have seen in the pictures white everywhere trimmed with accents of blue.  Our ship arrived in the early morning so it was a sleepy little town, but I am sure it would have been a bit of a party later in the day.  Tony and I were keen to enjoy the quiet of the Spa on a port day, without having to cue for the heated beds.  They were only suppose to have made 40 passes available to the Spa, but it's seems like we were all taking advantage of this at the same time.  A bit of shopping with Emma, a coffee and a baklava and we headed back to our floating hotel.

Athens - Piraeus is Athens' main port, the biggest in Greece and yes I agree with that fact as they  have 7 ships daily, most days of the week. So what does that mean? Too many tourists. We were lucky as I believe there were only 5 ships the day we were there.  We disembarked and were ready to tackle the Acropolis of Athens.  We discovered it was just as easy to do your own excursion/tour and arrange for a driver outside.  We did just that and with a bit of negotiation we were on our way.  Our driver was ever so pleasant and helpful with information and stopping to get that special pic.  Seeing he was only suppose to drop us at the Acropolis, this was a very kind gesture.  From the little exposure we had of the Greeks and a bit of chit chat with 2 different drivers, it seems they are very angry and bitter with their government for allowing the country to reach the economic disparity that they are in.  He felt he paid his dues and taxes for all those years and stopped paying any tax for the last 18 months.  He tells us that 70 % of the population feels this way.

Onto the ruins of the Acropolis, which was amazing!  Emma was quite taken with the whole scene and we were even able to do a bit of rock climbing in the area, let's just call it rough terrain.  It is unbelievable to think that these structures have been maintained and restored for so many centuries. Some of the works were erected in 432 BC. The Parthenon in particular was sensational, it is a temple dedicated to the goddess Athena and was one of the earliest of the classical monuments of the Acropolis.

Naples - we forfeited this port as we had just spent a week in the Amalfi coast.  So no pizza in Naples for us.  From what I understand it is not that great anyhow and we discovered some great pizza in Siena since than.

I never thought I would be a cruiser, but I have succumb and converted.  I get why the oldies prefer this mode of travel.  Think about it...fuss free! Never having to unpack and pack again. While you see many ports of call and numerous cities, transport issues solved, food and at the end of the day you are back on the dance floor doing the two step in your formal attire on those special nights.  We all had our own private holiday, the children were entertained all day long with Emma being able to come and go at her will.  What a sense of freedom for her to decide when she wanted to eat and plan her day.  I have come to see that Emma is very good with the younger children and really enjoys being with them, she doesn't think they are a nuisance or a pain and has a lot of time for them.

The fun factory stage performance was something to see, some of the boys playing musical instruments, Hamish doing magic tricks and Emma doing a gymnastics routine.  Check out the photos of the gang from fun factory.

Saturday 12 October 2013


Italy
Road trip in Italy (Massa, Pisa, Cinque Terre and Benevento)
Road trip snacks and movies
We left the French Meditterranean and drove towards Italy along the coast.  The last big city to pass through was Monaco before we crossed through the tunnelled mountains.  Now we only just drove along the top of this famous city, but what a site it was.  Hotels, sky scrapers, beach and pink.  One minute we are in France and the next Italy with only a couple of hours under our belt. Living in Perth, Australia, you don't really get very far or a destination really after 3 hours let alone another country, so it was a bit of a novelty for us.  Immediately upon crossing over you see a vast difference from the lifestyle from the South of France into this hardworking countryside of terraced farms with hothouse market gardens.  Imagine the padi rice terraces in Bali, though these are large enclosed veggie gardens.  Using the land is always a smart thing to do in creating an income.. The homes were far from palatial or elaborate but rather barrack like, and needing some love.

This road trip in our green bus takes us through San Remo and down to Massa, which is on the coast and part of the Tuscany region.  It was not so much the town that we wanted to visit but establishing breaks from driving in between towns.
View from apartment terrace in Massa
 MASSA is a industrial town filled with yard after yard of marble slabs on pallets waiting to be shipped out and placed in your kitchen.  Upon arriving at our destination on the coast, we were greeted with private beach clubs lined up one after another, it is a locals summer playground with full service clubs. Many include a childrens play areas, tennis or ping pong, restaurants, bars and tiny little huts to store all your summer paraphnalia waiting for you each summer holiday season.  Here we were able to continue with our exercise on a much flatter terrain and not the cardiac hill of Extarri.  Tony challenged himself to get back up to his 10 km goal without pain...goal achieved.  Between visits to Pisa and Cinque Terre we managed to knock off quite a bit of home and world schooling.  The kids are happy to have 1 or 2 hours a day rather than a main stream school day....bribery included!


Day 2 - We did a day trip from Massa over to Pisa, approx a 20 minute drive and did the tourist thing as everyone does in Pisa.  Take pics and simulate your kids holding up this teetering magnificent structure.  Our 1st visit to Pisa was in 2001 and we understand that the tower has tilted a further 5cm since then.

Day 3 - We ventured into La Spezia with high hopes to board a ferry to take us to one of the stops in Cinque Terre.  Of ourse we were in no hurry and taking everything in stride.  After painfully listening to Annoying Annie taking us to a port for shipping lines, we decided to pull her battery and rely on the street signage to get us to our destination.  Once there, we realized there wasn't a parking spot to be had, after much sighing and trying to ascertain what the parking signs meant, we aborted the mission and resolved to try again the next day.

Day 4 - Up early and ready to tackle the parking and hopefully arrive before the ferry departs.  The website for the ferry schedule is not up to date and as it is dependant on the weather.  As it was, there were only 2 departures from La Spezia for the day due to poor weather conditions with stops only in Portovenere and the first village of Monterosso al Mare.  We found our park paid our coin to the meter and made the ferry with 10 mins to spare.  The sun was shining and the wind was up.  It all started off lovely with a slow cruise out of the port and on our way to our first stop of Portovenere.  Once out of the protection of the bay it started getting a little sloppy and waves were rolling the boat from port side to starboard side and not only that but bow to stern.  Great!  I am not the most fearless of individuals and lucky for me we were on the top deck and not enclosed as I fear my breakfast would have appeared as one gentlemans did.  I felt for him, as I knew very well it could have been me.  It is all in the power of the mind with seasickness, so I stayed positive for the journey not only for myself but also for Emma and Hamish as my fear would have made it unbearable.  Emma was fine, but Hamish was alreay with me with the movment of this vessel. He stayed very quiet throughout the trip and when his little hand slipped through mine ever so gently and remained there I knew I had to provide him the reassurance.  It was a moment in time where you know your children are still so vulnerable even though they are seeking that independance.  We got a birds eye view of the 5 villages from the water, as we were travelling from La Spezia we hit Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso where we were able to get off.  Vernazza was the only village where the captain thought it was a good idea for a photo opportunity, so with the waves crashing up against the rock faces and us some 10 metres from the dock, I thought to myself was it really necessary to put us at risk and the safety of us for a 'happy' snap.  I am sure amongst all those photographers, there was 1 or 2 more with the same thoughts as I.  Moving on from my inner ear imbalance, we had a very impressive view of the 5 villages and I believe the only way to see this is from the water.  Both Tony and I would like to return to hike through the 5 villages, we are told it takes about 5 hours in total.  We enjoyed a lovely lunch of seafood and fresh pasta pesto.  Both Emma and Hamish are extending their taste buds to sample the various variety of specialities provided in each place.  Well done kids!  We took the train back as both Emma and I opted for this considering the water was getting considerably rougher.  It was a good way to see how the train system worked before our Eurail Swiss/Austria journey.

We packed up again and left this marble yard for a vineyard...Tenuta Torre Gaia located nearby the hill town of Benevento.
 We stayed at a vineyard which was only getting back on its feet after being closed for 2 years due the the country's economic situation and only re-opened a year ago after it was purchased by 2 brothers,  the courts still hold the deed on the land after the foreclosure.  This was a lovely time with wine tours and great wines, swimming for the kids and outdoor play.  I couldn't pass up a trip to the Italian designer outlet, here we managed to get some formal wear for the boys to wear on the cruise.




Positano and Capri


Positano
 "you are starving my life out" a fabulous quote from Hamish after ascending some 400 stairs of the 630 odd required to get back to our house from the beach.

One week in Positano was an exceptional experience for us, Tracey has done well again with the accommodation.  Getting here from Benevento was not such a relaxing drive, the Italians are crazy drivers, overtaking on blind corners, driving at 150 km/h or more whilst talking on their phones and smoking with the other hand. The bends and curves into Positano overlooking the cliffs and ocean are an amazing site, I'm driving like an old grandpa again just so I can see a little of the sites . Poor Hamish the constant turns are making him car sick but there is not much that can be done about that. Buses coming at us from the opposite direction sure make you clinch a little tighter, breathe in and we will fit through.

We finally make it to our destination to meet Julie our host. We pull over on the side of the road park on this skinny little curved street, unload a few bags and head to the villa.  Down 160 odd steps , with two suitaces in hand, drop the bags, get instructions to where to take the car and off I go.  More hairpin turns with no idea really of where I'm going but I'm sure I can't get lost, or can I? Found the one way street I was told about, keep going car park is down here somewhere!  Well finally found it, now to find the house, lucky for me our host sent Emma down the stairs to wait for me so I'd find the correct staircase. Up another 160 stairs and I'm home, what a view, nice villa, plenty of room and fresh herbs, chilli's, strawberries all growing under the grape vines.  I cannot tell you enough about the beauty of Positano and the Amalfi coast, you must come and see it for yourself.


Those of you that are familiar with Jacobs Ladder at Kings Park and thought it was hard work going up and down it try Positano. 630 stairs from the beach to our house, 165 stairs up from our house to the shops, oh my thighs are killing me. Well at least it helps to justify the beer and wine being used for rehydration purposes.

By day 4 we are stair fit, Emma and I take to having running competitions up the stairs, poor Dad is going to have a heart attack on the stairs, oh well at least we have had a great time and seen some sites before I fall over and die in Italy. Hamish is holding on to my shorts,  it is a conspiracy concocted by a 10 year old and assisted by a 6 year old, I can't catch Emma, she claims the victory. I'd argue and protest but I can't breathe.

We have had a very nice relaxing time going to the beach most days, playing chess, checkers and watching the occasional movie. We book a private boat tour to Capri and are not disappointed, the water is sensational and shows a beautiful spectrum of blue and is alot warmer than the water off Trigg beach . Our guide Pedro, takes us along the coast and shows off the caves, the small grotto's and the heritage sites along the coast.  Arriving to Capri Island we are shown some beautiful swimming spots, we swim as a family through the caves an amazing feeling.  Even the old duck, or 'turtle' as she is fondly now often called, decides she is going to come in.  A half day tour around the island and a quick peak into the harbour at Capri and our days comes to an end with a quite beer on our terrace over looking the sunset.  I'm glad we decided to do the tour it really topped off a fantastic week in Positano, some great home cooked meals, lots of time together playing games but alas time to go soon.  Hang on its grand final weekend, going to have to get up early and listen on the radio.

Final Day - 5:30am, something wakes me up, I bolt out of bed turn the alarm off and head out to see if by some chance I can find the footy on the TV, I look at the iPad to see about radio streaming, oh crap I'm an hour too early. Oh well I'll put the coffee on, 6:30am I find the AFL broadcast live on the TV but the commentary is in Italian, kind of weird listening to it in another language, though the broadcasters knew the game and the players.   Hamish comes to join, we turn the sound off and sit and enjoy the game live. Our friends, Craig and Christina and their boys are in Croatia but cannot get the footy, so I grab Traceys ipad and skype call them then hold the ipad on my lap so they can see the rest of the game. Not quite my AFL grand final tradition of going to Yallingup with the boys to watch the game but still not bad.

Games over back to porter duties and drive the car, we are out of here and heading to Rome for 2 nights before heading out for our Eastern Mediterranean 11 night cruise.