Sunday 22 September 2013
Avignon and the Côte d'Azur
South of France
It's hard to know where to start, we have visited some wonderful places, unfortunately our time is nearly up in France. The drive from Extarri to Narbonne was quite picturesque a few castles to be seen beside the highway, some magnificent architecture and nice green rolling hills and mountains. They drive pretty fast around here, speed limits of 130 km/ h on highway and most people ignore that and race past us. For my comfort it was a safe 110-120 km / h for us at most times, yes I was driving like an old Grandpa, I would have loved to borrow some of Audi sports cars or Ferrari's that roared past us for a quick release of adrenalin but say la vie it was not to be.
Our airBNB hosts in Narbonne where extremely welcoming and the rooms were perfect, they gave us some recommendations on places to eat and things to see. Narbonne town is quite pretty with a river running through the middle, a war memorial in the centre of town and a fantastic old church. We took the hosts up on their recommendations of lunch at the Narbonne markets and had a wonderful seafood platter, Emma discovered oysters are actually ok, although from the photos you willl see her facial reactions were rather entertaining. We went out to check out the beach at Narbonne which was suprisingly good, I just missed the triathlon that was held on the beach that morning unfortunately. Oh well, not much exercise but I'm sure we will be ok for more food . Given the lunch recommendation we had to try their recommendation for dinner, it didn't disappoint, and finally a French restauraunter with a keen eye for service with a smile and an informal chat. A nice Frenchman, being typically blunt as I can be at times, I said before we left that France would be interesting, as I had never met a Frenchman that I liked, well I can now say I've met a few that were a pleasure to talk to.
Narbonne to Graveson, just outside of Provence , what a beautiful old hotel and such a friendly greeting. A short drive into town to a wonderful little restaurant La Burceil, overlooking the river Rhone with a view of the Old Papal Palace and the gardens . We couldn't have asked for a better spot to start this experience , with Tattinger champagne by the glass, good service and beautiful food. A quick review of the town for all of us and then a more detailed look at the Papal Palace where the pope lived before Vatican City was established, the surrounding gardens and the three quarter bridge( insert name ) .
Carrieres de Lumieres, the works of Monet, Renoir and Chagall, projected as a light show on to the walls of huge caves, matched with some sensational music, this was a simply awesome experience. The caves were man made, converted to an art centre many years after the mining for bauxite and limestone was completed. Th limestone was used to build the Chateau and the village of Les Baux. The show takes you on a journey around the Mediterranean from Impressionism to modern art , our pictures do not give the works any justice unfortunately, an amazing must see for yourself to experience.
Saint Remy, a little town not far from Provence and Graveson was one of our favourite spots in the Provence region and we could have done with a bit more time to explore around the area but it is time to move on to Villefranche In the Côte d'Azur. Oh my goodness what a way to top off the South of France, a drive through the beach front of Nice and around the corner to our apartment in Villefranche, what an astonishing view. We are very happy we did not hang around the muck and congestion in Nice...not our scene.
Tracey writes;
Villefranche is a quaint village with numerous apartment buildings clustered into the hillside of this playground for the rich and famous. Toys such as yachts, fast cars with top European tags and palatial homes which are dotted along the waterfront, somehow you are absorbed very quickly into this lifeslifestyle. I was particularly intrigued with watching the coming and goings of the 3 cruise ships which came in for a day or 2 lucky ones got to stay the night. The mass production with getting those passengers into port was quite amusing as I sat on my balcony with a champagne, feet up and overseeing my children in the pool below.
We decided to explore these narrow tight streets of the French Riverea and found ourselves in Cap Ferret looking for a beach which was recommended to us by our friend Emma. We didn't find the beach, but we laced our way through the tiny streets of immaculate homes with manicured gardens and walls with heights of 2.4 metres and above. No chance here to see their spectacular views! The next day we had a look at Eze, ooowww how beautiful is this little village! Cut out from limesstone and once inside the outer walls you will discover a small Provencal village filled with charm and colourful window boxes, offering a panoramic view of the sea and coast-line. Cave like shops leading off narrow and curvy steps for you to potter through.
Now allow me a moment to mention the spandex clad men and woman perched atop their 2 wheel bicycle. I will forever admire their skill, bravery and non-chalance towards their sport. Whether it be hugging a tight curve of a very narrow downward slope, with no hands whilst speaking on their mobile or climbing various mountains with little space for cars let alone cyclists.. Or is it just stupidity?
Not near enough time in this jewel of Avignon and Côte d'Azur, we will return. Italy awaits....
Friday 6 September 2013
Spain...a little piece of heaven.
Etxarri, Spain
After a long day with most of it spent at Madrid airport, we safely arrived in San Sebastián at 9.30pm. I use the word 'safely' lightly, as when preparing to board our propellar plane from Madrid to San Sebastian, I see a good looking Spainard skipping out and giving the pilot, who is already in the cockpit, a handshake. pilot # 2 than swiftly pulls himself up through an opening, as a monkey would swing from branch to branch. At least I had comfort knowing that there was someone praying for us all.
My first impression of San Sebastián, was one of awe and beauty, as the sun was coming to a close and the night lit up with coastal lights. Rock face cliffs were beating down the white surf and the lush green landscape left me mesmerised by its beauty it held.
Our hosts Cristina and Francisco were waiting for us at the airport to drive us out to AZPIKOETZEA Casa Rural Etxarri, a farmhouse which has been in Cristinas' family for 4 generations now. 3 years ago, Cristina left her job as a journalist to undertake the painstakingly restoration of this 17th century farmhouse. The results are simply wonderful. I couldn't wait to wake the next morning to see the view that lay before my eyes, as I looked out the window beyond our verandah. Fields of feed corn and pastures for grazing sheep with the only noise of cow bells, attached to the sheep of course and the local framer tinkering in his barns. We had 2 weeks of reading, game playing, exploring, daily exercise, visiting with friends and eating of course. Etxarri has a population all of 50 people and this is where we rested our heads for the last 2 weeks while we explored the Basque Region. With only a short 2 KM away was the town of Lekumberri, this became our new locale. We would walk down and back each day enjoying a coffee and croissant, the walk back was mainly uphill, so no guilt with the baguettes or croissants we devoured. Quite a civilised way to start the day I think.
We were blessed to receive our friends Craig, Christina and their 2 gorgeous boys Callum and Charlie for 4 days. I think it was wonderful for the children and seeing that the VW's had been away from their Aussie mates for a lot longer than us, I am sure they appreciated seeing familiar faces. The children absorbed themselves with chess, alphabet letters game, UNO, checkers and many varieties of these games. The outdoors of the farm had them observing sheep from the cozy neighbour playground (approx. 15 sq m) with the mountain ranges as their backdrop. The adults were able to play catch up on past and present events. We took a trip to San Sebastian in search of tapas, which we later found out is referred to Pintxos. Literally, dozens of these bars line cobblestone laneways and have a wide selection of Pintxos laid out across the entire bar, pair it with a splash of vin blanco and you are captured by the culture. It is said that San Sebastián does it like no other and is rated the best food in all of Spain, maybe even the world as stated in my Lonely Planet. There are a few Michelin star restaurants in the Basque region, but we did not visit them, we would have paid dearly for a taste of a branded star. After we bid farewell to the CVW's, we got on with seeing more of the Navarra region.
We spent a couple of days at the beach getting the sand in our toes and swimming in the Bay of Biscay and enjoying beers and pintxos on the beach. On one particular day it was rather warm and I had not intended on going to the beach instead opted for some time browsing the shops and sitting in cafes. Once back at the beach, I could not resist the water, so what does any mid 40's woman do...get her gear off and jump in the refreshing water. As Tony said, they are all doing it and no one is going to pay you special attention just beacuse you are flashing your breasts which are lily white with a touch of strawberry. I didnt have my lace knickers on but those that are thread bare....I will leave it at that, as dont think you need anymore of a visual.
We took a lovely bike ride, or what we thought would be a great morning out cycling the rugged track here, it compares to the Bibbulem Track in Western Australia. Well, pretty much straight off Hamish got the jitters and couldn't make his way down the steep hills and granted, they were very rocky with large chuncks of gravel which made your bike tires lose traction and made your heart flutter. After a painstaking 3.5 km and a couple of stand offs, we turned around. After a few more tears, I finally managed to get Hamish on his bike. On the final decent Hamish lost control of his bike and was doing the Batman, hanging onto the handlebars as his body swayed in the wind behind him. Nothing Tony or I could do at that point. After a less than graceful landing on a unsuspecting runner he was OK, lucky though as his stomach landed on the kickstand which decided to erect itself, he didn't puncture anything or worse yet impale himself...he walked the last kilometer home.
We took to some indoor rock climbing and this was exceptionally good. I was a little nervous when I realised that my children's safety was in my hands, as Tony and I were required to secure the ropes and tie the knots...I got it down pat and have now learned rock climbing secure knots. Such fun for the kids, though my neck was a little sore from craning up at them.
A visit to Bilbao to see the Guggenheim Museum. This is an extraordinary piece of architecture designed by a Canadian Architect, Frank Gehry. We didn't enter the museum as it is more about the building and design itself which is the main attraction here. If I am honest, I am more entranced and excited about the buildings themselves rather than the artwork which is housed inside. The children were more than happy to play in the water art fountain on display on the west side of the museum as well as the fabulous playground, while Tony and I took it in turns walking around the perimeter of the musemn. Bilbao is large filled with concrete, roadworks and traffic, we couldn't get out of there fast enough. It wasn't fast enough though, as Annoying Annie ( the GPS) was insistent that we were going on a bridge that no longer existed and that they were presently deconstructing. I will leave it at that.
Our little spot of heaven is ideal for those who want to come for rest and relaxation. If you are an author, writer or avid hiker and nature lover, this is the perfect spot to immerse yourself in. We loved this perfect piece of paradise. Ernst Hemingway did!
Tomorrow, we are off to Narbonne, Avignon and Villefranche-sur-mer in the South of France. Adios!
After a long day with most of it spent at Madrid airport, we safely arrived in San Sebastián at 9.30pm. I use the word 'safely' lightly, as when preparing to board our propellar plane from Madrid to San Sebastian, I see a good looking Spainard skipping out and giving the pilot, who is already in the cockpit, a handshake. pilot # 2 than swiftly pulls himself up through an opening, as a monkey would swing from branch to branch. At least I had comfort knowing that there was someone praying for us all.
My first impression of San Sebastián, was one of awe and beauty, as the sun was coming to a close and the night lit up with coastal lights. Rock face cliffs were beating down the white surf and the lush green landscape left me mesmerised by its beauty it held.
Our hosts Cristina and Francisco were waiting for us at the airport to drive us out to AZPIKOETZEA Casa Rural Etxarri, a farmhouse which has been in Cristinas' family for 4 generations now. 3 years ago, Cristina left her job as a journalist to undertake the painstakingly restoration of this 17th century farmhouse. The results are simply wonderful. I couldn't wait to wake the next morning to see the view that lay before my eyes, as I looked out the window beyond our verandah. Fields of feed corn and pastures for grazing sheep with the only noise of cow bells, attached to the sheep of course and the local framer tinkering in his barns. We had 2 weeks of reading, game playing, exploring, daily exercise, visiting with friends and eating of course. Etxarri has a population all of 50 people and this is where we rested our heads for the last 2 weeks while we explored the Basque Region. With only a short 2 KM away was the town of Lekumberri, this became our new locale. We would walk down and back each day enjoying a coffee and croissant, the walk back was mainly uphill, so no guilt with the baguettes or croissants we devoured. Quite a civilised way to start the day I think.
We were blessed to receive our friends Craig, Christina and their 2 gorgeous boys Callum and Charlie for 4 days. I think it was wonderful for the children and seeing that the VW's had been away from their Aussie mates for a lot longer than us, I am sure they appreciated seeing familiar faces. The children absorbed themselves with chess, alphabet letters game, UNO, checkers and many varieties of these games. The outdoors of the farm had them observing sheep from the cozy neighbour playground (approx. 15 sq m) with the mountain ranges as their backdrop. The adults were able to play catch up on past and present events. We took a trip to San Sebastian in search of tapas, which we later found out is referred to Pintxos. Literally, dozens of these bars line cobblestone laneways and have a wide selection of Pintxos laid out across the entire bar, pair it with a splash of vin blanco and you are captured by the culture. It is said that San Sebastián does it like no other and is rated the best food in all of Spain, maybe even the world as stated in my Lonely Planet. There are a few Michelin star restaurants in the Basque region, but we did not visit them, we would have paid dearly for a taste of a branded star. After we bid farewell to the CVW's, we got on with seeing more of the Navarra region.
We spent a couple of days at the beach getting the sand in our toes and swimming in the Bay of Biscay and enjoying beers and pintxos on the beach. On one particular day it was rather warm and I had not intended on going to the beach instead opted for some time browsing the shops and sitting in cafes. Once back at the beach, I could not resist the water, so what does any mid 40's woman do...get her gear off and jump in the refreshing water. As Tony said, they are all doing it and no one is going to pay you special attention just beacuse you are flashing your breasts which are lily white with a touch of strawberry. I didnt have my lace knickers on but those that are thread bare....I will leave it at that, as dont think you need anymore of a visual.
We took a lovely bike ride, or what we thought would be a great morning out cycling the rugged track here, it compares to the Bibbulem Track in Western Australia. Well, pretty much straight off Hamish got the jitters and couldn't make his way down the steep hills and granted, they were very rocky with large chuncks of gravel which made your bike tires lose traction and made your heart flutter. After a painstaking 3.5 km and a couple of stand offs, we turned around. After a few more tears, I finally managed to get Hamish on his bike. On the final decent Hamish lost control of his bike and was doing the Batman, hanging onto the handlebars as his body swayed in the wind behind him. Nothing Tony or I could do at that point. After a less than graceful landing on a unsuspecting runner he was OK, lucky though as his stomach landed on the kickstand which decided to erect itself, he didn't puncture anything or worse yet impale himself...he walked the last kilometer home.
We took to some indoor rock climbing and this was exceptionally good. I was a little nervous when I realised that my children's safety was in my hands, as Tony and I were required to secure the ropes and tie the knots...I got it down pat and have now learned rock climbing secure knots. Such fun for the kids, though my neck was a little sore from craning up at them.
A visit to Bilbao to see the Guggenheim Museum. This is an extraordinary piece of architecture designed by a Canadian Architect, Frank Gehry. We didn't enter the museum as it is more about the building and design itself which is the main attraction here. If I am honest, I am more entranced and excited about the buildings themselves rather than the artwork which is housed inside. The children were more than happy to play in the water art fountain on display on the west side of the museum as well as the fabulous playground, while Tony and I took it in turns walking around the perimeter of the musemn. Bilbao is large filled with concrete, roadworks and traffic, we couldn't get out of there fast enough. It wasn't fast enough though, as Annoying Annie ( the GPS) was insistent that we were going on a bridge that no longer existed and that they were presently deconstructing. I will leave it at that.
Our little spot of heaven is ideal for those who want to come for rest and relaxation. If you are an author, writer or avid hiker and nature lover, this is the perfect spot to immerse yourself in. We loved this perfect piece of paradise. Ernst Hemingway did!
Tomorrow, we are off to Narbonne, Avignon and Villefranche-sur-mer in the South of France. Adios!
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